- NeOmega Resin
- Vector Resin
- Komplekt Zip
- Sailing Pitch Gauge
Working with resin requires similar skills to working with plastic models. The resin is a polyester resin and tends to be the same sort of hardness and 'plasticity' as you will be accustomed to. It can be cut, filed and sanded using your existing tools. Larger parts will need removing from their casting blocks with a razor saw, then sanding of the cut surface up to the original part using 200-400 grit wet & dry paper, ideally wet to reduce the dust, on a flat surface.
To glue, we recommend cyanoactylic (superglue). A medium thickness is best, but use thin for the finer parts. Epoxy can also be used if preferred.
Very occasionally parts can get warped or bent. This may be because during transit, they may have become warmed somehow. If a part is warped or bent, before getting straight onto the forums to complain to everyone, try putting the part into boiling water and leaving it to go cold. This usually 'resets' the resin memory back to it's original shape. If this fails to cure it, just drop us a line please.
It is suggested that you spray the model with a good primer after adding the resin parts. This will provide a good key for your paint finishes.
Some sets will have clear parts. These are usually vac formed and can be fixed to the model with an odourless superglue to prevent fogging. But we have found that Canopy Glue, usually a variant of PVA glue with an additive, is a better solution as it dries clear but can be removed afterwards if needed. Glues such a R/C Modellers glue from DeLuxe Materials is the best we know of. The very occasional set has clear cast parts. The process for producing these is rather longer winded and requires much more time and effort, requiring heated moulds and pressure chambers. Any tiny imperfections can be removed with 12000 grit micromesh and polished up with Autoglym car polish. However, take great care and only do this is absolutely required.
Any further questions please ask!